The city's historic local shops and restaurants: a tour among the wonderful caruggi

Genoa, a labyrinth of alleys and a constellation of stores holding fascinating stories and precious secrets. In the very heart of the historic center, you can find authentic, small and picturesque treasures, collecting all the traditions and flavors lost in the mists of time.

Discovering the shops is the perfect way to breathe the traditions and the authentic atmosphere of the thousand-year-old city. Strolling through the cobblestone streets, the heady scents and varied shopfronts will catch your attention and enchant your senses.

In this article, we will tell you the story and some interesting facts about some of the most fascinating and typical restaurants and shops of the Genoese tradition.

Antica Friggitoria Carega

Historically, Genoa's friggitorie (fry shops) have been established facing the sea that bathes the Porto Antico, among the medieval volutes of the Sottoripa arcades. The best known of the few still in business is certainly the Antica Friggitoria Carega on 113r Via Sottoripa, established back in 1942. There are no signs outside the place, but the scents will lead you in front of a counter full of delicacies.

You absolutely cannot miss farinata. This dish was born in 1284, upon the return of the victorious Genoese from the Battle of Meloria. It is said that during a storm, some barrels of oil and sacks of chickpea flour spilled over creating an unusual mixture joining with salty water. They let the mixture dry and that’s how the farinata we all know and love was discovered. In order to mock the people who had lost the battle, and because of its distinctive color, this delicacy was nicknamed "Gold of Pisa."

Don't pass up the other specialties as well: cod fritters, panissa, anchovies, octopus, whitebait, vegetable polpettoni, and more.

Antica Tripperia La Casana

Centopelli, cuffia, cordone, gruppo, castagnetta, ricetto e gola: ecco i sette tagli della trippa.

Centopelli, cuffia, cordone, gruppo, castagnetta, ricetto and gola: these are the seven cuts of tripe, a delicious traditional Genoese dish that can be found in Vico della Casana 3 at Antica Tripperia.

Since 1890, harmony, beauty and simplicity have blended in the store thanks to the original architectural elements, furniture and utensils from the early 20th century. Until about fifty years ago, Genovese people used to sit on stools and eat on wooden tables with marble tops. They were mostly workers and people that worked in the port who, on their way to work, savored a steaming cup of tripe broth.

Here’s the version for the more curious and creative tripe lovers. The 1920 recipe, the oldest and closest to the original one, also has dried mushrooms in it, a very common ingredient in the Ligurian land-based cuisine. The recipe usually includes the cooking of tripe with bone marrow, mushrooms, meat broth, Parmesan cheese and milk.

Farmacia Operaia Sormani (Sormani workers’ pharmacy)

Aperta nel 1927, la bellezza della farmacia emerge già dal portone, caratterizzato da un ricco fastigio scolpito, che affaccia su Piazza della Raibetta 6r. Una volta entrati, rimarrete stregati dal tipico pavimento in ardesia e marmo bianco, dal bancone in legno intagliato con mascheroni, lesene, festoni, stemmi e motivi vegetali che rivestono come boiserie l’intero ambiente interno.

You can also find pill boxes, ceramic jars and bronze mortars used for the preparation of ancient medical recipes and a bottle for the making of seltzer.

This is called a “workers’pharmacy” because of the discounts and concessions that were applied to the people that worked in the port.

Also, you will notice that inside the pharmacy there’s an ancient clock held up by two winged griffins. The clock strikes 3:35 a.m., the time when British bombs fell on Genoa in 1941.

Giacalone Barber Shop

The Giacalone Barber Shop was created in 1908 in Vico dei Caprettari at number 14 red. In 1922, the son of the store's founder decided to renovate the shop's fittings, according to the styles of that period, which combined Art Nouveau and Art Deco.

The "gallery of mirrors" that characterizes the store is filled with lights and consists of a scale model of the most famous galleries of royal residences. You will be fascinated by the typical belle époque atmosphere that fills the alley. Along the top of the walls, emerald green and gold crystal panels help color the light that, bouncing from mirror to mirror, radiates throughout the room.

Lungo la parte alta delle pareti, pannelli in cristallo verde smeraldo e oro contribuiscono a colorare la luce che, rimbalzando da uno specchio all’altro, irradia tutto il locale.

In 1949 the barbershop was captured in the film "The Walls of Malapaga," starring an unforgettable Jean Gabin.